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Among several other aspects, the medium format (6x6, 6x7...) itself has one big advantage over smaller formats. The photographer can put a considerable emphasis on a subject by working with the very small depth of field aperture settings. If you follow that line, you better know your lenses. The Mamiya RZ lenses have a lever that can stop down to the preferred aperture and visually check the DOF, however, that does not always help due to the darkness of the focusing screen when you close the aperture. The Mamiya lenses also have a little slide ring that can be adjusted (aperture/distance) that show the DOF, but it is relatively coarse. So it's always better to know in advance what you can expect from your lens, and swap them if necessary. There are three main aspects of depth of field that I try to keep in mind for the main lenses I use:
- hyperfocal distances (min, medium, max aperture)
- DOF at open aperture at 5 meter focus. The 110mm/f2.8 has a DOF of around 140cm here.
- DOF at open aperture with an extended focusing bellows at around 4.5ft / 1.5meters distance (typical close up). At that distance the DOF with the 110mm/f:2.8 is only a few centimeters, around +- 6cm!
Now, for my working horse lens, the 110mm f:2.8 lens I have these values pretty much memorized. This is a great lens and but has to be respected because of it's shallow DOF capabilities. But what if you need precision? What about the other fixed focus lenses?
I tried to use smart phone DOF calculators, but gave up on them. Too hard to read on bright sunny days, and I loath fumbling around with the phone while photographing. I tried to print charts, but they only gave hyperfocal values. Important enough, but the object distance is equally important, if not more. A few days ago I found a slide rule type calculator on the net, which is pretty nifty and also works for other formats than 6x7, from 35mm up to 8x10 large format.
For those who are interested, here it is:
nomographics.com/web/resources…
Now I have to figure out how to put it together in a sensible way
Best,
Mark
- hyperfocal distances (min, medium, max aperture)
- DOF at open aperture at 5 meter focus. The 110mm/f2.8 has a DOF of around 140cm here.
- DOF at open aperture with an extended focusing bellows at around 4.5ft / 1.5meters distance (typical close up). At that distance the DOF with the 110mm/f:2.8 is only a few centimeters, around +- 6cm!
Now, for my working horse lens, the 110mm f:2.8 lens I have these values pretty much memorized. This is a great lens and but has to be respected because of it's shallow DOF capabilities. But what if you need precision? What about the other fixed focus lenses?
I tried to use smart phone DOF calculators, but gave up on them. Too hard to read on bright sunny days, and I loath fumbling around with the phone while photographing. I tried to print charts, but they only gave hyperfocal values. Important enough, but the object distance is equally important, if not more. A few days ago I found a slide rule type calculator on the net, which is pretty nifty and also works for other formats than 6x7, from 35mm up to 8x10 large format.
For those who are interested, here it is:
nomographics.com/web/resources…
Now I have to figure out how to put it together in a sensible way
Best,
Mark
From Analog Negatives to Digital Art
From Analog Negatives to Digital Art: A Short Overview of a Technical Solution
I've had quite a few inquiries on how I scan my analog photos and which scanner I use. A lot of people were surprised, if not bewildered when I answered that, for monochrome negatives, I don't use a scanner at all.
In the moment, I use a Sony Alpha 77 DSLR with a Tamron 60mm Macro for DSLR digitzing. Generally, I would say any good DSLR with a large sensor (megapixels really count here!) is good. A good macro lens is essential because of the close distance to the negative. It must be good if you want to make 2 or 4 (or more) shots of a single negative, because di
Devious Journal Entry
Yippie!!
http://www.deviantart.com/dailydeviations/?day=2015-12-06&columns=4
Monitors
Finally, after years of agonizing if I should do this, I got myself a good monitor (Asus PA279Q "ProArt" <-- Art is always good :-) )
Pro: The most stunning colors I have ever seen on a monitor, also the monochrome photos look better. The monitor has a very high color reproduction: 99% Adobe RGB, 100% sRGB, and 120% NTSC. Also, the WQHD resolution is great when working with highres photos.
Con: Darn! On a calibrated monitors most of my photos look way off, too dark mostly. Seems like I have a long and tedious job of adjusting to do. The photos, of course :-)
Oh well, can't have it all, it seems.
Cheers,
Mark
Back in town
After a five week trip through Sri Lanka we're back again. We loved it in "the land of the smiles" and already miss it dearly.
Took the Mamiya "beast" along, of course, and exposed around 30 films. The film rolls are processed now and I'll be spending the next few months picking out the good ones and getting them ready for displaying.
Cheers,
Mark
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A cunning design! Though probably rather complicated to make. I do like slide rules; and use them (much to the dismay of offspring). This would be a fun thing to produce out of the bag, even if most of my lenses have engraved DOF markings!